Fakarava

Brilliant rainbow after an early morning squall enroute

Coral heads in the anchorage at Rotoava

Marine life including small octopus

April 25 2015

Fakarava in the Tuamotos

The Tuamotos atolls were once called the "dangerous archipelago". Before the advent of GPS it was difficult to know exactly where you were among the atolls. In geological history they were once volcanic islands surrounded by coral reefs, then the centre sunk. What is left is a ring of coral around a lagoon. The only height to see are coconut palms. There are 76 islands, 46 of which are inhabited, spanning 1000 miles. Average size of a lagoon is 20 by 9 miles. If there is a pass into the lagoon entry needs to be coordinated with slack tide as the currents and waves can be difficult. When traveling through the atoll, and when it is time to anchor, you need good light to avoid the coral heads.

Fakarava, our most easterly stop, is a Unesco marine site. No fishing is allowed but then there are lots of fish to see. The pass is one of the widest. That was a good thing as we did not have the timing just  right. We had more than one way to estimate the tides but they were about 2 hours apart. It will be easier going out. The trip from Nuka Hiva was 4 days. The winds were good for a fast passage so we had to spend the last day trying to go under 4 kn to arrive around 8:00 am. That night was squally with winds 20 to 30 knots so we had up only a bit of mainsail. It was raining as we motored through the ebbing tide against 25 knots of wind. Thank goodness for a good engine! But the sun was out by the time we reached the eastern side to anchor.

The major town here, Rotoava, is a small, picturesque place. The distance across the land accommodates just a road or two. We have eaten out for a lunch and a dinner on docks built over the water. It is like an aquarium to watch the fish swimming by in the clear, shallow water. There is a reef near the boat that we want to snorkel around this afternoon. Those who have been there already say there is a lot to see, including sharks and moray eels. The first night after arrival Libby hosted a potluck on their boat for the 4 BPO boats here at the time. Three more have arrived since, but three have left this morning.

Yesterday we rented bikes for the day to do some exploring. That was fun after so much walking. We rode out to the airport and watched an Air Tahiti flight land and take off. The major industry here is farming black pearls and you pass a number of land as well as water work places. Getting a pair of earrings is on my wish list, although they are expensive.

Other than that we have done the usual boat things, shopping, cleaning, laundry, repairs, internet, and making water. We haven't decided where to visit next or when or even if. It is a 2 day sail to Papeete and we would like to be there by May 2. Checking out the weather forecast is on this morning's "to do" list.