Fakarava Atoll

Great snorkeling

Black pearl inside the oyster

April 28,2015

Fakarava Atoll

We are still here as we have really enjoyed a relaxing time. After squally weather Sun and early Mon there is now almost no wind. Neither scenario has been good for sailing to another atoll. We plan on moving Wed am with the slack tide at 6 am to Toau, 44 nm away.

The flat seas have been great for snorkeling and dinghy riding, and for those with a paddleboard or kayak. The fish and coral were amazing on the reef near the boat, at least a dozen of various colors and sizes.

The highlight today was a visit to a black pearl farm operation. This was the oldest and largest operation and is connected with a small resort with bungalows. The tour was free but included a chance to participate in a "lottery", where you paid $30 and received whatever pearl you got from the shell you chose. Considering the prices in their jewellery store it was a good deal. All of us who participated got large pearls but of varying qualities. They were strung for us as necklaces afterwards. It was fun to watch the openings and see what was there and what it looked like after a cleanup.

After a brief introduction to the industry which began here in 1961 with Japanese techniques we snorkelled out to some nearby buoys. Hanging from these were the cages with 20 large shells in each. The first small shells used at 6 months of age come from the sea or another smaller atoll. They are strung from lines and placed in cages for protection. At 2 years they are removed and a small nucleus is inserted in each along with a piece of the lip from another shell. After growing another 2 years this is repeated with a larger insert. At either 4 or 6 years the shells are opened to retrieve the pearl. Only 50 % will have one by then. The "surgery" must by done quickly so that the oyster does not die. This part is done by a Japanese expert. Also the cages and shells need to be cleaned every 3 months.

 All oysters start their life as males. If they have no stress in their lives for a few years they become female. After all the above procedures the pearl bearing shells are all males. The economy and the water and climate are not as good as 50 years ago. The oysters in their shells don't live as long as they once did and many farming operations have gone out of business.

We should be in Papeete,Tahiti, sometime on the weekend. Jimmy Cornell is flying in and we will be discussing the revised route on May 4. Everyone is looking forward to that. Some may not continue on depending on the changes.

Fakarava

Brilliant rainbow after an early morning squall enroute

Coral heads in the anchorage at Rotoava

Marine life including small octopus

April 25 2015

Fakarava in the Tuamotos

The Tuamotos atolls were once called the "dangerous archipelago". Before the advent of GPS it was difficult to know exactly where you were among the atolls. In geological history they were once volcanic islands surrounded by coral reefs, then the centre sunk. What is left is a ring of coral around a lagoon. The only height to see are coconut palms. There are 76 islands, 46 of which are inhabited, spanning 1000 miles. Average size of a lagoon is 20 by 9 miles. If there is a pass into the lagoon entry needs to be coordinated with slack tide as the currents and waves can be difficult. When traveling through the atoll, and when it is time to anchor, you need good light to avoid the coral heads.

Fakarava, our most easterly stop, is a Unesco marine site. No fishing is allowed but then there are lots of fish to see. The pass is one of the widest. That was a good thing as we did not have the timing just  right. We had more than one way to estimate the tides but they were about 2 hours apart. It will be easier going out. The trip from Nuka Hiva was 4 days. The winds were good for a fast passage so we had to spend the last day trying to go under 4 kn to arrive around 8:00 am. That night was squally with winds 20 to 30 knots so we had up only a bit of mainsail. It was raining as we motored through the ebbing tide against 25 knots of wind. Thank goodness for a good engine! But the sun was out by the time we reached the eastern side to anchor.

The major town here, Rotoava, is a small, picturesque place. The distance across the land accommodates just a road or two. We have eaten out for a lunch and a dinner on docks built over the water. It is like an aquarium to watch the fish swimming by in the clear, shallow water. There is a reef near the boat that we want to snorkel around this afternoon. Those who have been there already say there is a lot to see, including sharks and moray eels. The first night after arrival Libby hosted a potluck on their boat for the 4 BPO boats here at the time. Three more have arrived since, but three have left this morning.

Yesterday we rented bikes for the day to do some exploring. That was fun after so much walking. We rode out to the airport and watched an Air Tahiti flight land and take off. The major industry here is farming black pearls and you pass a number of land as well as water work places. Getting a pair of earrings is on my wish list, although they are expensive.

Other than that we have done the usual boat things, shopping, cleaning, laundry, repairs, internet, and making water. We haven't decided where to visit next or when or even if. It is a 2 day sail to Papeete and we would like to be there by May 2. Checking out the weather forecast is on this morning's "to do" list.

Nuku Hiva - Island Tour

The island tour gang (plus Terry and Dena)!

Beautiful Tatiheu Bay

Taiohae Bay with Oa Pou in the background

Tikis

April 17, 2015
 
Island Tour

Our last full day in Taiohae Bay, Fri the 17th, was spent on an island tour in a van with 9 passengers. We crossed the mountains through the Taipivai valley to the SE bays , then over to the NE and Hatiheu Bay. We're not doing too well pronouncing place names when the vowels well outnumber the consonants. Herman Melville's first book, Typee, is loosely based on his time hiding out in Taipivai after "jumping ship" with another crew member.
The TV show, "Survivor " had a series filmed in the same bay in 2000. The company rented out all the accommodations available for 2 months to limit tourists. They also set up the first cell phone coverage for the island.

One part of the tour was a lesson on botany. Although the islands had only lichen and ferns when first discovered they have good soil and climate so introduced plants from many other countries have done well. We also saw many examples of introduced species that have caused more problems than help. Without distinct seasons the buds, flowers and fruit are all on the tree at the same time.

We visited a Catholic church and enjoyed their interpretations of the Christian story in their statues and other art, much of it Polynesian. Jesus and Mary are happier looking, with dark complexions and sitting on drums and holding breadfruit. The snake looks like an eel as there are no snakes here for reference.

Another big focus of the tour was the archeology sites with many similar stories to the ones heard on previous islands. We visited the largest reclaimed site in the South Pacific although the tikis were larger on Hiva Oa. We saw tools used in the rituals of cannibalism-the dungeons, axes, head and neck holders, and burial spots for bones. It was done usually as a sacrifice to a god for safety or food, or to inherit the good qualities of the person eaten.

There has been an unusual cultural side effect to these killings. Since they only used males, families often raised their first born sons as girls. They can procreate but otherwise are quite effeminate. They are still accepted in the culture, although many are gay now, and are preferred in the service industry since they don't need maternity leave. We certainly saw them at our buffet dinner.

On the tour was the crew of Heron Reach, Ginny and Gerry, who joined the BPO after a long sail straight from the US to the Marquesas. Chris and Paul on the boat "Georgia" in the harbour joined us. They hail from the same Seattle home port. Coincidentally, they purchased their boat in 2011 in Cape Breton. It was one of the other boats we considered when we were looking at Maggie.

We are finally having one of those great trade wind sails and have covered 150 nm in 24 hr. We could travel 6 to 7 knots in about 10 knots of wind. Today we are reefed and going over 7in 15 to 18. It is the afternoon now and I noticed that while I am writing down below the other 2 on board have fallen asleep. I had better keep a bit of a watch.

Nuku Hiva

Beautiful harabour at Taiohae

Local dancers

Rob being welcomed

View out church window!

April 16 2015

Nuka Hiva

We are having a good week in Taiohae, Nuka Hiva, our last stop in the Marquesas and the capital city. It was a treat to arrive to a large bay where there is plenty of room for boats. Although there is still a swell no one is using a stern anchor. Again we are surrounded by high, green slopes. There are some mega yachts here as well as the many sailboats that pass through.

Yesterday, Wed, the local tourist bureau put on a welcoming event. Again we were treated to lei’s and chanting and dances. We joined in weaving baskets and hats from coconut leaves and stringing necklaces from coloured seeds. More dancing and rum and juice cocktails preceded a huge buffet dinner.

The evening was also a farewell to the boaters who were part of the Pacific Odyssey as opposed to the BPO. Most of them will be travelling now at a slower pace. They will likely spend the storm season in New Zealand or hauled out in Tahiti and return to the islands next season.

There have been many activities here to choose from but most boaters are relaxing or doing boat chores. I’m surprised how many of the fleet (compared to us, the younger ones) have had tattoos done here. The Marquesans are famous for their tattoo work. Luc and Jackie have had a presentation at 5 most days, covering topics like activities here, navigating the Tuamotos, and South Pacific weather. We’ve stayed for dinner ashore so I am getting a big cooking break.

Beside the dinghy dock there is an outdoor restaurant with internet. We will try again to get some photos attached to this. The internet speed is painfully slow. For the next island group we are trying to download charts, google earth and tide tables. After many hours we are still not done. We still probably have until Sat or Sun. There is almost no wind until then, so boats are waiting to start the 520 nm trip to the Tuamoto atolls.

Ua Pou, Marquesas, French Polynesia

MAGGIE at anchor (right) in front of basalt spires of Ua Pou

Welcoming meal in Hakahau Bay, Oa Pou

Welcoming committee!

Warriors doing the fertility dance

Sailors doing the "in"fertility dance

April 13 2015

Ua Pou

We have spent the last 4 days on the island of Ua Pou. What a beautiful place! The peaks are high and rise sharply from the valley and bay. They are topped by several spires which reach into the clouds most days. The town and its homes are filled with gardens of flowers and fruit. In the anchorage manta rays can be seen swimming and jumping. As well as children enjoying the beach, there were a number of horses. It is difficult for tourists to travel here as you must go to Tahiti first and take a small expensive flight east. Most tourists come by sailboat.

Jackie and Luc had arranged two full days of activities with the local tourism office and the mayors of two of the towns. Ato from the tourism office and his staff, and Ben who coordinates cultural activities and his family involved many people from the community to make our visit a memorable event.

On Fri we received a warm welcome and the 2 kisses on the cheek in French style. A buffet of fresh fruit and coconut juice was a treat as you can imagine.   

Our costs covered two days of meals all of which included abundant fruit, many unfamiliar.  The grapefruits grown here are huge and very sweet. The grapefruit trees are covered in fruit this season.  Jeeps took us to another beach across the mountain where there can be found a rare type of stone called a flower stone. It is a volcanic rock with crystals in it that look like flowers. We found a few samples. The larger rocks can be found in stream beds at higher altitudes. Local rock carvers make beautiful works of art from it. Too expensive and heavy for us.

At lunchtime we had a demonstration of the various ways to prepare breadfruit. This has been the traditional staple food of the islands. It is a bit like a potato but grows as a fruit about 6 in across. You find it made as fries or chips often, or boiled, baked, grilled and mashed with other things. We also viewed other crafts and listened to local music.  Dinner was a bbq on the beach with octopus and goat mostly.

Each of the 2 days had interruptions for boat anchoring issues.  One boat needed to move so that an adjacent boat could retrieve his anchor. Another had his stern anchor line chafe through. The next day some boats moved to the next anchorage because the swell was too high here. We are fortunately anchored behind the breakwater so took a ride to the next town’s events. It is only a 4 mile sail but the ride in the 4x4 took 45 minutes. Both roads traveled were very rough, narrow and muddy.

More of the yachts participated in Sat’s events in Hakatehau Bay. We had a traditional welcome with the children, men and women in traditional dress and makeup. The young men dressed as warriors did a welcoming dance.  When they got our men up trying the moves, the children couldn’t stop giggling. With a population of only 200 they provided a great lunch and dinner and entertainment.

 In the afternoon we drove to a waterfall hike and swim. We also paid a visit to a sustainable farm property. Manfred arrived on Ua Pou with the French foreign legion 30 years ago and married a local girl and stayed. They produce all their own power and food and have water resources. It is interesting to see all the details and plants and animals. They grow cocoa and make chocolate which we couldn’t resist purchasing.

In the afternoon there was a chance to snorkel, or play bocci ball. We noticed many families playing that on the beach all weekend. It is a challenge when there are rocks in play. The dinner was made in an underground oven with the food wrapped in banana leaves-more goat, octopus and breadfruit, but with a unique flavour. The singers during dinner used guitars, and 2 types of ukulele. After dark, the “warriors” performed two interpretations of stories, the discovery of fire, and the arrival of the white man. It was a combo of chanting, dancing and drumming. Each with a torch and flame against the rock walls and along the water it was something to remember.

We had sailed to Oa Pou overnight last Wed. There wasn’t much wind after the first few hours so we were back to a bit of motoring and gybing in the sloppy seas. We thought we would cover the 69 nm too soon but didn’t arrive until 11.  Today the sail across to Nuka Hiva was beautiful. It was only 26 nm with 12 knots on the beam. We will likely stay here until the weekend before moving on.     

Easter Weekend

Easter Sunday Church Service - Atuona, Hiva Oa

Tikis - Hiva 0a

April 8 2015

Easter weekend

Easter weekend has been quiet for the locals and their businesses but the BPO boats have had plenty to do. The internet café opened Tues so we are trying to catch up on jobs that require wifi. We are so spoiled at home with the speed of service. There is a morning shuttle to town. Each time we have started the walk back to the harbour a local has stopped to offer us a ride back. We are finding the Marquesans very friendly. The island is also very clean.

A number of us attended mass on Sun morning as well as a Sat evening service. Although we couldn’t understand the language we know the message and could worship through the music. There was a lot of good singing with harmony and with tunes that were easy to learn.

Ten of us booked an island tour for Mon. We drove across the island in a 4x4 jeep over very rugged steep roads. The views on the north coast are quite dramatic. Although only 26 miles, it took all day with the stops. There is a marathon coming up on that route which would be a climbing challenge. There are lots of goats living on the steep cliffs. One type of hunting done is to shoot a goat on a cliffside from the boat. Then as the goat drops to the sea, the challenge is to catch it before the sharks do.

A major tourist attraction on the islands are the “tikis” which are large statues carved in stone that were worshipped as gods. We visited one large ceremonial area that had many preserved. When the missionaries arrived many were destroyed or hidden. It has only been in the last 25 years or so that the church has allowed sites to be restored for historical interest. The islanders are predominantly Christian but see the value now of knowing their past. In contrast to the Marquesans, the people in Vanuata apparently went to church Sunday but prayed to their own gods Monday.

Tues evening Luc and Jackie had a skippers briefing on the rest of the islands here and the Tuamoto group that we will visit next. They are lagoons surrounded by a reef whereas these are high volcanic islands. They are an older development geologically as the central crater sinks. Lovesail had those of us in the anchorage for a farewell party on their boat. The boats that were only a part of the Pacific Odyssey, not the BPO, will be parting ways. But I’m sure we will see many of them in the next few spots.

Already boats are dispersing to different islands. Four are in Fatu Hiva now which is south of here, and some stopped there on the way. It is a beautiful island but we have decided not to bite off the 40 miles to windward to visit it. The BPO has arranged a special 2 days of activities in Oa Pou on Fri and Sat. that we don’t want to miss. We will be leaving at dusk tonight for an overnight sail there. The Pacific Odyssey boats will have more time to spend in each area before the end of the season.

Easter Sat in Hiva Oa

At Paul Gauguin's tomb

View of Bay near Atuona

This Sat am is the only time anything will be open for 4 days so we woke up early to take advantage of the time. The laundry has been dropped off to be done. An island tour has been arranged for Mon. We visited the grocery store for depleted supplies.

A stop was made at the ATM for francs, the only currency accepted here. We knew from the Galapagos that the magnetic strip on Rob's debit card is shot. I can get $ from my account but it has a lower limit. Our plan is to get a new card mailed to the marina in Tahiti and to raise the limit on my card. But we were having a challenge talking on the sat phone and having it cut out. We'll work on that again tomorrow.

There is a museum here on Paul Gauguin which we spent some time in. It was very interesting.

Arrival in Hiva Oa

First view of Hiva Oa, Marquesas

MAGGIE at anchor (blue hull)

Our daily track across the Pacific

It is a good Friday for us as we arrived safely in the Marquesas. The last overnight was as good as the day, with fair winds, a full moon, and even a caught tuna. Bob took the first watch and filleted the tuna. Rob and I probably didn't sleep much during our turns off watch as we needed to pay attention to the route and sails to get a good time to arrive. Admittedly we were probably just too excited. We landed up arriving about 11 am, after 25 days at sea.

After getting a bow and stern anchor set, with only a few glitches, we got the dinghy ready for the trip to shore to check in. Luc and Jackie had some welcoming treats for us-a bag of baguettes, local grapefruit and bananas and leis. They knew what we had been missing so had a great lunch.

The check in project has been much delayed. You need a dinghy anchor at the dock because of the swell. Rob threw it over before noticing that the line had come undone between it and the chain to the anchor. After diving several times for the lost anchor and chain he gave up. We found a large rock and tied a line to it and that worked well enough.

By the time we got to town everything was closed for the holiday including the gendarmerie who do check ins. But the process has been started with Luc finding us an agent who will work on the bond issue for a fee.

We spent the afternoon just walking around to stretch those legs. It is so beautiful here! The peaks are high and cloud covered and the hillsides covered in lush growth. We hiked up a steep road to a town cemetery where there were great views of the sea. I don't think I have ever been in a cemetery that was this dramatic looking-with the plots being added as you go up the cliff. The artist, Paul Gauguin, is buried there. He spent the last years of his life living and painting here in the town of Atuona. Jacques Brel also lived and was buried here. I can see why it would appeal to an artist as a home.

Rob promised to treat the crew to a dinner ashore when we arrived. We passed a nice looking spot on the walk back to the harbour. The owner's son gave us a ride back to the dock which was much appreciated as it was raining by then. He also picked us up for dinner and returned us afterwards. It is an hour's walk to town so any ride is appreciated. The crew of Windwalker was also there so it was fun to swap stories of the passage as their SSB had not been working.

We passed the local Catholic church in town where the Good Friday service was on. We listened for awhile as the music and harmonies were beautiful. The language was Marquesan, however. We may have understood a bit if it had been French. We hope to return for services Easter Sunday morning

A Beautiful Last Day, Number 23

Flying our Parasailor spinnaker

Another beautiful sunrise on the Pacific

This has been the nicest sailing day of the whole trip. The winds are between 10 and 15 knots from the back quarter, the sun is shining, the waves are at a good angle, and we can sail right on the rhumb line to Hiva Oa. Right now at 4:30 we have 86nm to go. When we take down the spinnaker at sunset we will have to reef to slow down. We don't want to arrive before light.

Rob checked our starting battery yesterday and found it low and not keeping any charge given. We ran the generator today to make sure the house batteries will be charged enough to start the engine. We'll have to be careful as we probably can't buy a new one until Papeete, Tahiti.

There has been a challenge out to write a song about the trip. The last few days we have been working together on one, although Rob got us going with a tune on his guitar. It has been fun to practise this afternoon. After years on the boat the guitar was still tuneable and playable.

Galapagos to Marquesas Day 22

The wind returned with a vengeance about midnight last night and has stayed high all day today. It has been as high as 26 but swinging from 10 to 20 mostly. We are taking turns this afternoon hand steering trying to optimize our speed and direction. If this keeps up we can make it in on Good Friday. I'm not sure if anyone will be working that day to check us in.

Luc and Jackie will be our BPO reps for French Polynesia and are already in Hiva Oa with the few boats that have already arrived. It has been exciting to read their emails with their plans for us. There are lots of logistics to be worked out also. We need to post a bond in the amount of a return airfare (or but a refundable ticket) which will be returned when we leave. We will be visiting 3 or 4 islands in the group.

We got a brief email from Jimmy Cornell saying that he has had to turn around and make a trip home for a family emergency. His boat, Aventura, was 220nm out of Panama on the way to Tahiti. He will still meet us there in May by plane. Also, our route onward from the Pacific looks more like it will be around Africa. We will be interested in finding out in Tahiti what that will mean for us on the timing of the trip.

We should be able to get our gmail using the new sat phone but our account is blocked for some reason. We'll have to work that out when we have an internet connection. We are getting the sailmail emails fine.

Looking forward to solid ground, a walk, a shower, fresh food, a full night's sleep, and a beer.