Maggie Closes the Loop

Our track across the South Indian and Atlantic Oceans - each small sailboat represents one day. We can't explain the boat three thousand miles away in the Bay of Guinea off Africa showing up on our AIS!

Martinique sunset with Tevai in foreground

View of Ste Anne anchorage

A local youngster dressed for Carnival

One of many bands practicing for Carnival

Kiters on Saline Bay on north coast of Martinique

Carol, Tim and Patti on our nine mile hike! Most of it was much more scenic than this stretch!

                        Standing on dock in Le Marin where we left on the BPO - witgh a brand new BPO flag courtesy of Jimmy Cornell in Barbados

Ste. Anne, Martinique         

 Maggie Closes the Loop

Feb. 15, 2017

For Rob and I, being back in Martinique, feels like we have returned home after the circumnavigation. For the past week we have been anchored off the town of Ste. Anne, which is one of our favourite anchorages. Ste. Anne was the location of the starting line for the Blue Planet Odyssey just over two years ago, although earlier that morning we had left a slip in the marina at Le Marin, a couple of miles east of here. There must be about 200 boats here, a far cry from some of the anchorages during the trip. If you count the neighbouring Le Marin anchorages and marina there are over a 1000 sailboats. We are enjoying an extended stay and working on some much needed boat projects. Besides good boating stores, there is cheap and good French wine, bread, pate and cheese.

We can again listen to our weather forecasters on SSB. Dennis is still running his net. He is a retired meteorologist from Toronto, so many Canadian boaters check in with him. We can hear where some of the cruisers we have met previously are in their travels. On our second day here, Tevai pulled in and anchored beside us. Tim and Patti were the first cruising couple we met when we started down the Erie Canal from Canada. We have crossed paths a few times since. It has been fun to catch up with them while doing some things ashore.

That last passage from Barbados is one we are glad to have behind us. The autopilot worked for the first half hour, but not for the rest of the voyage. So it was another day and overnight of hand steering. But this time the wind and seas were higher and on the beam so it was hard work. It also rained a fair bit. When we motored out of Barbados, the engine was making some strange noises, and smelled like burning rubber when we turned it off. When ready to take down sails here, the motor wouldn't start at all. We managed to sail into the back of the bay off Ste. Anne and drop the anchor. We were happy that this is a harbour where that can be done without an engine.

The next morning we took a long, wet dinghy ride into town, and then the bus to Le Marin to check in and try to find an engine repair mechanic. The symptoms seemed similar to the last time the starter motor failed. We were lucky to find someone competent and willing to come out to the boat by dinghy. Despite its being their busy season, he arranged to come out the next morning. We raised the dinghy out of the water overnight, just to make sure it would be safe to use. In the morning, when Rob went to leave, the gas can and fuel line had been stolen from the dinghy. Rowing in was the only option. With the long distance and seas in the anchorage that day, I don't know if he would have made it in for the appointed time. But other cruisers came to the rescue, several times, and he got towed into the dock. Jean Paul, the mechanic, was still willing to come to the boat. They got another tow out. After a morning of work, we had a new starter motor, switch and relay installed. The engine is working now, and we have reanchored closer in. The next day, it was off to the shops again for supplies to get the dinghy motor back functional. All is well now. We are really pleased with how helpful people have been.

On the weekend we saw the first of many Carnival activities. There was a costume parade with 9 bands which was fun. This weekend there will be the king and queen crownings and more entertainment. We took a full days' hike from here through the countryside, east coast, and south beaches. Quite a variety of scenery. Yesterday we spent a day in the capital of Fort de France, sightseeing and shopping. Next stop will be St Lucia, where we have ordered a new dinghy and motor. We also hope to get the autopilot repaired there. We thought we could learn more about the problem with an English speaking repairman. We'll likely remain in Martinique for a few more days before heading down to St. Lucia. It feels nice to be back in cruising mode - staying in one place until we don't want to be there anymore!

While this will wrap up our blog related to the Blue Planet Odyssey, we will continue with periodic posts to allow anyone interested to follow where we are and what we are up to. We haul out in Grenada on April 18 so have some time to enjoy the islands before heading south.

Barbados Visit Week 2

Carol aboard Ecstacy

Brightly coloured buildings of Bridgetown

Maggie and other anchored in Carlisle Bay

Large rubbish fire near the marina

Fishmarket

Rob trying to get internet at The Pirates Cove

Jimmy Cornell with some of the younger crew of the Caribbean Odyssey

Barbados Visit

Week 2

Feb.5, 2017

Today is Sunday, and on Tues we will have been here two weeks. We are ready to set sail again. Hope to make the arrangements for checking out tomorrow, and then leaving Tues. We have decided to travel to St. Anne's in Martinique. Since we left from the neighbouring harbour of Le Marin Jan. 2015, it will feel more like we have "closed the loop". Besides, we need a spot to stock up on wine and cheese and pate and baguettes. Most stores here only sell rum, and more rum. Tahawas and No Regrets left Thurs for Grenada. We hope to cross paths again as we travel south and they travel north. Most of the islands are an overnight trip from Barbados.

Jimmy had a windup, celebratory cocktail party at the Yacht Club on Wed for the BPO boats and the Caribbean Odyssey boats. 13 of their 15 boat fleet were already here. Sat night, Feb.4, there was another rally party and dinner on the beach for the Caribbean Odyssey boats that arrived after last Wed. and any of us still on the island. We may meet some of them again around the other Caribbean islands.

When we first moved to the anchorage there were only 4 visiting boats anchored. Now there are about 2 dozen. Most of the Odyssey boats are moored in the careenage. It is interesting to see all the varying flags. All the boats have crossed the Atlantic to here. There are even 2 Canadian ones near us. One bought their boat in Greece and sailed here, but haven't met the other yet. We have met quite a few Canadians while touring around the island. Some have winter homes here, or are on vacation, or cruise ship. The cruising sailors we met in the South Indian Ocean were mostly planning to leave Capetown after Christmas. They would not be here yet.

It has been an unusually windy week, so the boats are really rolling out in the anchorage. But after all the passages we can sleep through this. What we are having trouble sleeping through, are the beach parties on the weekend. The nightclub just ashore has the music full volume until 3 am. Need to leave before next weekend, at least.

Pebbles Beach is a lovely beach during the day. We tie up in the harbour and walk over instead of beaching the dinghy. Right now we are negotiating with a dealer in St Lucia to trade our dinghy and motor for new ones. If we had a lighter 2 stroke engine, we could pull it up on the beach easier. And now that Rob has reinstalled the dinghy davits, we would like to go back to  the size of dinghy we had before the accident in Tahiti. We never liked the one we had to purchase there.

We have been doing lots of walking and taking the bus around to sights. We visited St Lawrence Gap, a touristy area on the southeast coast. From there we went to the Oistin's Friday night fish fry, with lots of vendors and music. There are good fish markets in each coastal town, but this is the largest. Another day we did the obligatory Mount Gay rum tour. It was actually very interesting with lots of history thrown in. And, of course, the samples. On Thursday, we went out on a 64 ft old wooden sailing vessel called "Ectasy". One of the owners invited us when we met at the customs dock rafted to his fishing boat. They invite friends and their guests out for a free 3 hour sail once a week, as a community service. Being on a sailboat is not a novelty for us, but it was fun to meet the other guests and learn more about the island. It's always nice when someone else is doing the work, too.

There continue to be many types of cruise ships in town. One night their garbage was burned at the end of a spit off the harbour. The flames were so huge I was glad it wasn't a windy night as we were nearby at the docks then. Of course, there are lots of shops in town for the tourists, but no good deals. We have been spoiled travelling in less expensive places.

Yesterday, in one of the parks, a stage and decor were being set up for Chinese New Year. I'd like to check that out. If we had more time, there is the museum, more rum factories, the garrison, cricket, horse racing, golf, gardens. Even a day spent swimming and reading on the beach would be nice.