Fakarava Atoll

Great snorkeling

Black pearl inside the oyster

April 28,2015

Fakarava Atoll

We are still here as we have really enjoyed a relaxing time. After squally weather Sun and early Mon there is now almost no wind. Neither scenario has been good for sailing to another atoll. We plan on moving Wed am with the slack tide at 6 am to Toau, 44 nm away.

The flat seas have been great for snorkeling and dinghy riding, and for those with a paddleboard or kayak. The fish and coral were amazing on the reef near the boat, at least a dozen of various colors and sizes.

The highlight today was a visit to a black pearl farm operation. This was the oldest and largest operation and is connected with a small resort with bungalows. The tour was free but included a chance to participate in a "lottery", where you paid $30 and received whatever pearl you got from the shell you chose. Considering the prices in their jewellery store it was a good deal. All of us who participated got large pearls but of varying qualities. They were strung for us as necklaces afterwards. It was fun to watch the openings and see what was there and what it looked like after a cleanup.

After a brief introduction to the industry which began here in 1961 with Japanese techniques we snorkelled out to some nearby buoys. Hanging from these were the cages with 20 large shells in each. The first small shells used at 6 months of age come from the sea or another smaller atoll. They are strung from lines and placed in cages for protection. At 2 years they are removed and a small nucleus is inserted in each along with a piece of the lip from another shell. After growing another 2 years this is repeated with a larger insert. At either 4 or 6 years the shells are opened to retrieve the pearl. Only 50 % will have one by then. The "surgery" must by done quickly so that the oyster does not die. This part is done by a Japanese expert. Also the cages and shells need to be cleaned every 3 months.

 All oysters start their life as males. If they have no stress in their lives for a few years they become female. After all the above procedures the pearl bearing shells are all males. The economy and the water and climate are not as good as 50 years ago. The oysters in their shells don't live as long as they once did and many farming operations have gone out of business.

We should be in Papeete,Tahiti, sometime on the weekend. Jimmy Cornell is flying in and we will be discussing the revised route on May 4. Everyone is looking forward to that. Some may not continue on depending on the changes.