Bau Bau

Bau Bau anchorage in front of Hotel Mira

Hotel Mira welcoming banner for the BPO

Seamstresses making traditional clothing

Tim and Carol at the old Fort

Weavers making cloth

Harvesting seaweed for food

Cute girls!

Harvesting rice

Meeting with the Mayor of Bau Bau - seated second from right

Traditional dance entertainment at the Mayor's dinner for the BPO

Bau Bau Visit

Oct 25 2015

Things are looking more cheerful on Maggie since the last blog. Having access to cash is a real mood lifter. We couldn't even send the last blog when it was written as the computer was acting up. Luc has had us so busy the last few days we haven't been on the boat except to sleep. Today we are skipping the snorkelling and lunch to get chores done. Rob is in town with a translator on his motorbike to try to find a new printer. Cartridges are area specific, so in the short term we are getting one that will take Asian cartridges.

This has been a very interesting stop for us all. Many of the activities would not have been available if we were not part of a rally. Last night, for example, the mayor invited us to his residence for an evening affair with dinner. We all made an effort to be well dressed (for sailors). Many of our men have bought sarongs to wrap over pants.  Many senior political people were also invited. We each gave an introduction to ourselves and there were many speeches. There was a chance to ask questions on both sides, in particular, about being ambassadors for climate change. In Bau Bau they want to know how to improve their tourism industry. All the staff there have been very helpful and friendly. After dinner there was entertainment from singers and students doing traditional dances. We were even all given gifts, a handwoven sarong and a town tee shirt.

Thurs evening we were also guests of honour at a special ceremony in a town about 1 hour's drive away. It is held in each community once a year to thank God for their blessings. The purpose would be like our Thanksgiving. When we drove into town the streets were lined with motorbikes. This is the main means of transport here. The large outdoor covered hall was packed with people sitting cross legged on the floor. They were dressed in their best finery, muslim style.  In front of each of them was a huge covered basket, about 2 feet across, containing food for the feast. The covers had all been elaborately decorated by individual families. Each family has one representative inside, with others crowded outside watching. It was a real honour then for our fleet to have a row inside. We were lent sarongs to cover up before entering. After speeches and prayers everyone uncovers  their meal at the same time. There was a huge number of dishes, a different selection in each  one. There was no way you could eat it all, but we gathered that the leftovers go to the family outside who prepared it.

We had  arrived Wed morning after many nights of hand steering. The last night Rob and I both were up from 3 am because there was so much garbage and fishing boats to avoid when getting closer to land. We skipped the first day's activities to rest. Or I should say that I did. Rob worked on the autopilot all day. Norm came over and offered useful electrical advice. We think it will be working once we start travelling again Mon. There was a school visit that morning. Those that went were impressed by the students and their questions. I think a review of the visit will be on the BPO site. In the afternoon there was a cave visit which was fun.

Both Fri and Sat we spent the whole day on a bus touring various spots in town or on the island of Buton. There are the remains of an old fortress on a hill overlooking the harbour. The various tribes from neighbouring islands often attacked, as well as outsiders like the Arab, Chinese, and the Dutch. Several of the old sultans are buried there. A guide led us and shared some of the history. We learned more of the country's history at the museum. It is housed in a former sultan's home. It has been 70 years since independence and any role for the sultanate. But 3 years ago they have started using them again but in a more symbolic role. The lineage was printed on a family tree and went right back to Genghis Khan. We made visits to several home businesses that sewed formal dress and accessories and hand woven fabric for sarongs. The average salary on this island is about 8 dollars a day! I bought some fabrics that would have taken weeks to make.

We visited a seaweed harvesting operation, a pearl farm and processing, and a rice farm and factory. The rice is harvested twice a year and it was underway when we were there. We had a chance to try cutting the tops off  with a very sharp knife. No one wanted to continue that all day for the $10. Tim accidently cut his leg. We took a detour to get it looked after by a Dr, other than himself.

The pearling method was much different than in French Polynesia-simpler but with a  cheaper product. More shopping for us women.

We have been eating all our meals out at different restaurants. The food is good and inexpensive, although we may be ready for a break from rice and fish. Sat's lunch was in a beautiful country spot by the rice fields. They had irrigation ponds where they stocked their own fish for meals. The rice fields are also kept in water during the dry season. Our guide had been there a few years ago in a heavy downpour. The ponds overflowed and the fish were lost. The tourists needed to wait 6 hours for the water to recede enough to make the road accessible. It is so dry now that we visited a waterfall that had no water flowing, a unique site.

Tomorrow, Mon we head to Selayer, a 160nm trip hopefully with a working autopilot. The ATM worked on this island and  Rob bought another phone and printer. So we are back in business.