Kuna Yala

Typical way to sell Molas

Molas for sale

Outside a Kuna house

The Kuna are the second smallest people on earth after the pygmies!

Yesterday was our first full day in this wonderful area. The Kuna prefer the name Kuna Yala for their archipelago of islands over San Blas, a name given by the Spanish. There are 365 different islands although most are not inhabited. Although they are part of Panama they fought for self governance in 1925.  In that year they passed laws like, no marrying outsiders unless you leave home, no personal land property, no property sold to outsiders. It was a surprise to see a swastika on a flag but that was their country symbol long before Hitler's days.
Surprisingly trade is predominately done with Columbia with Kuna selling coconuts and molas and receiving food and other needed goods.

All the women and girls stitch the molas which are similar to a quilt with layers of fabric, appliqué, and hand stitching in intricate designs. They also make beaded bracelets and anklets. They are very colourful dressers. The women manage the business and finances and the men are assigned jobs. When they marry the man moves into his wife's family home area.

We were very fortunate yesterday to meet a local, Nestor, who knew some English from having working as crew on a sailboat, and some years in California. We met him on Wichubhula, one of the 4 islands we can reach by dinghy. None of them are larger than about ¼ km long. The 2 larger ones have 300 and 700 inhabitants. We took the dinghy over to see if there was a school there that we could make some contacts with. Tim, Bill, and Zeek from No Regrets were along also and fortunately for us speak a bit of Spanish. No luck with a school contact as they have their yearly vacation time Jan to March. There was no fresh produce available but the crew were happy that they sold beer.

Nestor said a supply boat would be in to his island, Nalunega, shortly so we headed there for a tour and shopping. He invited us to return to have a lobster   dinner at his home in the evening. We went and bought the lobsters from the fishermen and paid $40 for the 6 of us for the rest of the meal. Everything was very delicious.

A description of his home was typical of them all. The floor is sand, the walls bamboo stakes, the roof thatched. The only furniture was a plastic table and chairs. Everyone sleeps in a hammock, up to 3 children in one. Instead of dressers the clothes and any other possessions are hung from the rafters. Nestor has an old propane stove. Fridges are also run on propane. Six neighbouring homes house his extended family. Fairly recently there was a donation of solar panels to the islands that charge marine batteries. All are enjoying using the power for evening lighting and some tv and dvd's.

Also on the island is a school, church, community meeting place, outhouses over the water, a communal kitchen, bakery, grocery store, satellite dishes and a basketball court. Unfortunately a lot of garbage piles up on the shore mostly from visiting boats dumping overboard. The other environmental issue is flooding in the rainy season as the islands are so low lying.

For most it is a relaxed life style with little crime. Out of the 300 people on one island 100 are children so there are a number that eventually move to Panama City. That is a different life, for sure.