Lahewa Lagoon to Pulau Asu to Lagundri

Purchasing vegetables in Lahewa

We are the curious attraction!

Unloading mattresses from the supply ship at Mama Sylvie's

Pier on Asu - nees some work!

Mama Sylvie and Carol

Surf break at Lagundri

Lahewa Lagoon to Pulau Asu to Lagundri

April 23 2016-04-22

We spent a day in Lahewa provisioning and getting diesel. This town is another that had extensive tsunami damage. One church is still being repaired, but the 3 mosques were functioning. We felt like a pied piper with many children following us around. Tourists are a curiosity here. Although many ask for handouts, we prefer to pay well if someone does a job for us. Whenever there is a port, you are to contact the harbourmaster. Most of us have been avoiding those spots as you never know what the rules and charges will be. We were asked for a tip for delivery of the diesel which seemed fair. No Regrets, instead, had to pay a fine for not listing that port as their next destination after Sabang.

On the day’s trip to Asu we finally had a chance to sail for a few hours which was a welcome treat. The small island was a delightful stop for an extra day. There are a few simple surf resorts ashore and Mama Sylvie cooks for anyone around. With family, staff and a few tourists there were 19 meals Wed. We had dinner there Wed and preordered chicken curry and lobster for 6pm Thurs. To my surprise, I received a plate with 4 grilled lobsters- a rare treat and not expensive. We also ordered a few loaves of bread, something we have not had for days. The Indonesians don’t eat bread so couldn’t find any in town. I had checked all 3 containers of yeast on board and they were dead. The same for the baking powder, and out of eggs so nothing to make flour rise. Hopefully I can find baking supplies in Padang for the ocean crossing.

We walked around to the island’s north corner to watch the surf. We didn’t catch anyone out but had a chance to talk to a few tourists about surfing, like what weather and land features produce a surfable wave. It is certainly not something we are familiar with from growing up on the prairies. One Australian family has been coming to the same place for 10 years. They have to fly into Sumatra, then fly or take a ferry to Nias, and travel to its west coast. Then a boat from the resort picks them up for the crossing to Asu.

The same boat also delivers all supplies and takes children to school on other islands. Where they go depends on where they have relatives they can live with during the week. Just after we arrived we watched a supply of new mattresses being delivered. The larger boat can’t get to shore so is on a mooring ball. Then a dinghy is used to get onto the beach through the surf.

Today, Sat, we are in Lagundri, a bay on the south coast of Nias. This is a famous surfing destination with breaks along both the west and east entrances to the deep bay. There are quite a few more upscale resorts, and we can watch people surfing from our boat. The swell doesn’t make it too far into the bay, so although it is rolly, it’s not too bad. There is north wind in the forecast so this is a more sheltered spot than Asu. The swell is also forecast to be growing over the next few days. The surfers are looking forward to that. Tim and Josephine on Revel have been here for a few days as they are surfers. They and Alfredo and Alicia from On Verra were over for drinks last night. Although we have been talking on the net, we don’t often get a chance to meet.

We hope to get to shore for a bit of sightseeing, but mostly it is another boat chores day. The next group of islands to pass through have no internet access. Rob hopes to get off some orders for parts today. He can have them delivered to Bob in BC and fly with him to Padang, May 8. Our biggest concerns at the moment are the bilge pumps. Neither the primary or backup is working. We have had them repaired twice before, but the access is terrible. Not a job to look forward to. The heads have issues but not a safety problem. Rob has been up the mast replacing the wind indicators, something that light winds have been good for.

A cyclone, Fantala, has been off the coast of Madagascar this week. It was the strongest storm ever recorded in the Indian Ocean. El Nino and continuing climate change are causing later and more violent storms. This is why we have not left on that crossing yet.