Bau Bau anchorage in front of Hotel Mira |
Hotel Mira welcoming banner for the BPO |
Seamstresses making traditional clothing |
Tim and Carol at the old Fort |
Weavers making cloth |
Harvesting seaweed for food |
Cute girls! |
Harvesting rice |
Meeting with the Mayor of Bau Bau - seated second from right |
Traditional dance entertainment at the Mayor's dinner for the BPO |
Bau Bau Visit
Oct 25 2015
Things are looking more cheerful on Maggie since the last
blog. Having access to cash is a real mood lifter. We couldn't even send the
last blog when it was written as the computer was acting up. Luc has had us so
busy the last few days we haven't been on the boat except to sleep. Today we
are skipping the snorkelling and lunch to get chores done. Rob is in town with
a translator on his motorbike to try to find a new printer. Cartridges are area
specific, so in the short term we are getting one that will take Asian
cartridges.
This has been a very interesting stop for us all. Many of
the activities would not have been available if we were not part of a rally.
Last night, for example, the mayor invited us to his residence for an evening
affair with dinner. We all made an effort to be well dressed (for sailors).
Many of our men have bought sarongs to wrap over pants. Many senior political people were also
invited. We each gave an introduction to ourselves and there were many speeches.
There was a chance to ask questions on both sides, in particular, about being
ambassadors for climate change. In Bau Bau they want to know how to improve
their tourism industry. All the staff there have been very helpful and
friendly. After dinner there was entertainment from singers and students doing
traditional dances. We were even all given gifts, a handwoven sarong and a town
tee shirt.
Thurs evening we were also guests of honour at a special
ceremony in a town about 1 hour's drive away. It is held in each community once
a year to thank God for their blessings. The purpose would be like our
Thanksgiving. When we drove into town the streets were lined with motorbikes.
This is the main means of transport here. The large outdoor covered hall was
packed with people sitting cross legged on the floor. They were dressed in
their best finery, muslim style. In
front of each of them was a huge covered basket, about 2 feet across,
containing food for the feast. The covers had all been elaborately decorated by
individual families. Each family has one representative inside, with others
crowded outside watching. It was a real honour then for our fleet to have a row
inside. We were lent sarongs to cover up before entering. After speeches and
prayers everyone uncovers their meal at
the same time. There was a huge number of dishes, a different selection in each one. There was no way you could eat it all,
but we gathered that the leftovers go to the family outside who prepared it.
We had arrived Wed
morning after many nights of hand steering. The last night Rob and I both were
up from 3 am because there was so much
garbage and fishing boats to avoid when getting closer to land. We skipped the
first day's activities to rest. Or I should say that I did. Rob worked on the
autopilot all day. Norm came over and offered useful electrical advice. We
think it will be working once we start travelling again Mon. There was a school
visit that morning. Those that went were impressed by the students and their
questions. I think a review of the visit will be on the BPO site. In the
afternoon there was a cave visit which was fun.
Both Fri and Sat we spent the whole day on a bus touring
various spots in town or on the island
of Buton. There are the remains of
an old fortress on a hill overlooking the harbour. The various tribes from
neighbouring islands often attacked, as well as outsiders like the Arab,
Chinese, and the Dutch. Several of the old sultans are buried there. A guide
led us and shared some of the history. We learned more of the country's history
at the museum. It is housed in a former sultan's home. It has been 70 years
since independence and any role for the sultanate. But 3 years ago they have
started using them again but in a more symbolic role. The lineage was printed
on a family tree and went right back to Genghis Khan. We made visits to several
home businesses that sewed formal dress and accessories and hand woven fabric
for sarongs. The average salary on this island is about 8 dollars a day! I
bought some fabrics that would have taken weeks to make.
We visited a seaweed harvesting operation, a pearl farm and
processing, and a rice farm and factory. The rice is harvested twice a year and
it was underway when we were there. We had a chance to try cutting the tops off with a very sharp knife. No one wanted to
continue that all day for the $10. Tim accidently cut his leg. We took a detour
to get it looked after by a Dr, other than himself.
The pearling method was much different than in French
Polynesia-simpler but with a cheaper
product. More shopping for us women.
We have been eating all our meals out at different
restaurants. The food is good and inexpensive, although we may be ready for a
break from rice and fish. Sat's lunch was in a beautiful country spot by the
rice fields. They had irrigation ponds where they stocked their own fish for
meals. The rice fields are also kept in water during the dry season. Our guide
had been there a few years ago in a heavy downpour. The ponds overflowed and
the fish were lost. The tourists needed to wait 6 hours for the water to recede
enough to make the road accessible. It is so dry now that we visited a
waterfall that had no water flowing, a unique site.
Tomorrow, Mon we head to Selayer, a 160nm trip hopefully
with a working autopilot. The ATM worked on this island and Rob bought another phone and printer. So we
are back in business.
Glad to see that your luck has improved, or at least your circumstances. Some serious frustrations on the last blog post. Thanks for the posts Carol, and for sharing your experiences.
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