Tuesday 18 August 2015

Port-Vila to Malekula, Vanuatu

Carol being welcomed to South West Bay, Malekula

Dan munching on coconut during a taxing climb to the village garden

Kastom dancers
Port-Vila to Malekula, Vanuatu

August 18, 2015

August 14, afternoon and overnight, we sailed from Port-Vila to Southwest Bay on Malekula. It was also our 44th wedding anniversary. Another celebration underway. Dan is really getting a taste of rough water. He has spent a fair amount of time sleeping. Hope that means he arrives home well rested. We are hearing of more things to see in NZ in Sept. I know we will not have enough time.

On Saurdayt Luc had arranged a day's visit to Labo, one of several villages on Southwest Bay, to see what life is like in their village. In the morning the men did several "kastom" dances with drum accompaniment. The rhythms are very complex, and each dance tells a story. The costumes are very elaborate and harken back to the war and cannibal days on Vanuatu. A longer explanation would have helped me. The women performed "watermusic" which surprisingly is done in the water by clapping the hands in various positions to create the rhythms.

Lunch was prepared by the women. All local dishes, mostly vegetables, were served. We met a 100 year old man and were thinking that the fresh food diet, fresh air, and climbing home are all good for your health. In the afternoon we toured their village. The homes and gardens extend up the hillside. With the thatched roofs and well tended gardens and property, it was quite beautiful. We continued on to a waterfall where you could swim in fresh water or dive from a height above. A number of our group, including Dan, did that. It has been quite cold and rainy this week so passed on that myself. The local kids must love it. The end of the day was a chance to snorkel on the reef. It has been good snorkelling everywhere here.

On Sun we visited another village on the bay. Historically each has spoken a different dialect. But today the national language is Bislama, which is a pidgin English with a bit of French. Both English and French are taught in school and most adults can speak them. If learning more languages is good for your brain, these children will be quite smart.

Luc has a blood brother, Esrom, in this village .He spent a fair bit of time with them 4 years ago and did much for them, including bringing cruisers ashore for tours. Esrom has built him a bungalow and planted a garden for him. Of course, he has also inherited a whole family. A challenge for us visiting was getting our dinghies up the river to the village. There are several sand bars that are too shallow for your motor to be down. But in the deeper sections the currents is too strong to get across and upstream without a motor. So we were in the water pulling the dinghy through some parts and hopping back in to motor some.

In the morning we took a long hike up into the hills to see the garden areas. With the rain it was a slippery challenge climbing. Our 2 guides hacked away the underbrush with their machetes. As well as seeing the plants grown we were given food for the boat. There is an inland fresh water lagoon that we were taken a boat ride tour on. The women here also made lunch for us. Afterwards we did eye testing on the children living there. We also checked the adults for reading glasses. We have a collection of various strengths to distribute. It was also a chance to give away things that we have collected for gifts. We would have enjoyed staying longer but our time in Vanuatu is limited. We want to get to a festival, Back to my Roots, on Ambrym Wed to Fri. It will be a 2 day trip.

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