Blue Planet Odyssey in Jacare, Brazil

|A reminder that we re in the land of the Zika virfus

Carol enjoying the warm water and extensive beach

Looking south toward Joao Pessoa

Tahawus entering the marina

Rob with crew of Tahawus, minus Mirko

Rob, and Ruy from Blue Wind

Marina Jacare Village infrastructure at high tide

Liam supervising moving of No Regrets to marina slip at slack tide

Blue Planet Odyssey in Jacare, Brazil

Dec. 13, 2016

It has turned out that four BPO boats ended up in the marina here. We have enjoyed some staggered celebrations as people have come and gone. Blue Wind has completed their circumnavigation, as they left from Brazil in the fall of 2014. The boat just got a ride from Thailand to the Med. They enjoyed sailing in Greece and Turkey primarily, before the long trip home. James was only here a few hours before his flight home for Christmas. Ruy left the next day. But the boat will be here for a month with Maggie, Tahawas, and No Regrets. Liam leaves today, Rob and I later today, and Nora in a few weeks. The others are staying. After the first day of checking airfares we also considered skipping the trip home. It is not a good idea to wait until the school holidays, which started this weekend,  to buy tickets. But I'm sure we would run into the same problem trying to tour Brazil this time of year. Besides, we are really looking forward to seeing family and friends. We will get to Toronto late Thurs, the 15th. Coming back, we leave home Jan 3, but are stopping over for a few days in Rio, until Jan 7.

It is quite nice at the marina. I was worried about having to med moor in a river that can have a current of several knots. But you just tie up on the end of the pontoons. And then at the next slack high tide, 3 marina staff with a dinghy help you get into a slip. That helps! Jacare Village Marina is one of 5 in a row along Rio Paraiba, about 7 km from the mouth. But the river travels inland parallel to the coast here. So it is only a 30 minute walk to the beach on the coast. The beach runs for 30 km, with lots of sand and warm water. The shops are near there. Right in Jacare, there are a few convenience stores, a fish market, and a tourist area with shops and entertainment. Tour boats cruise the river and like to come close to see the boats. Lots of music both onshore and on the boats. It seems that all Brazilian music is very loud and the locals like to party.

Checking in to the country is quite a process. Today, Tues, was the earliest we could leave even though we arrived last Wed. The officials only work mornings and each stop is in a different location and has taken a few hours. Thurs was immigration, Fri customs, Mon port control. And today back to customs for the forms necessary to leave the country without the boat on our Christmas trip.

On Monday we took the train into the closest large city, Joao Pessoa, a 30 min. trip. Public transportation and museums are free in Brazil to those over 60 years, even if you are a tourist. Although the regular train fare is less that 50 cents. The historic city center is the third oldest in Brazil. There are some churches that have been in use since the fifteen hundreds. They have seen Spanish, Dutch, and Portuguese rulers. A group of us spent the day wandering around the city enjoying the old architecture. It is more ornate than the British colonial buildings. There were a number of information signs, but all were in Portuguese. We need to come back with an English guide book. We will have a few days on our return before heading to Barbados, the official end for the BPO.

Getting Close to Brazil

Getting Close to Brazil

December 6, 2016

Another day or two left in the trip! With 170 mm to go, we could arrive late Wed or early Thurs. The approach to the marina is through a reef, and then 7 nm up a river. Not something we want to tackle in the dark. There is a strong current in the river, so the strategy is to start the trip on a rising tide. If the wind stays high enough, we could arrive at a good time late Wednesday. Otherwise we have to slow down to arrive Thurs morning. Fortunately, you can anchor in the river. The suggestion for getting in to a marina slip is to wait for slack tide to attempt the med mooring. Something to look forward to!

The only sign that we are getting closer to the coast has been the increase in boat traffic. It is interesting to read the destinations of all the freighters. Most of the north traveling ones are heading to the USA. South going, often Singapore. The water temperature is now afternoon 32.6 C. Those famous Brazilian beaches have more to recommend them than just expanses of sand. The ones just south of the marina are the furthest east of all South American beaches. Hopefully we will have time to visit.

We copied some material about the area when we had internet in St Helena. It will likely take 2 days to complete the checking in procedures. The tourist bars in the area play loud music until 2 am most nights. The marina is Jacare Village marina. The town at the coast is Cabedelo. Airport is in Joao Passeo. But flights will go through Rio or São Paulo.

Tahawus arrived in Fernando yesterday and No Regrets today. They hope to catch up with us in Jacare before we leave. That is likely to be the middle of next week.

Halfway

 Halfway

December 1, 2016

Last evening we reached the halfway mark. We are now in the tropics, about as far south of the equator as Grenada is north of it. The time zone is -1 UTC, with Eastern Brazil at -2. And it is the first of Dec. Air temp is 25 and water temp 28. All of these things are making it seem like we are on a homeward stretch.

In the past week we have only seen two freighters go by. Some days we can get the other BPO boats on SSB, but not always. Bluewind, (the BPO Brazilian boat that went to the med), is also crossing the Atlantic now. They and Tahawas and No Regrets will be meeting in Fernando, an island off the northeast coast of Brazil. We'd love to see them again, but would the detour would shortchange us on Christmas time. It is 300nm back SW to the marina at Jacare.

Now that the wind is a bit higher, about 15kn, we have been traveling wing and wing. It certainly has been easier to sleep without the spinnaker up overnight as the wind direction keeps shifting around. We each spend about 5 hours on watch and napping, and another 5 sleeping. We can usually travel between 5 and 7 knots. The wind instruments stopped working, but you can feel where the wind is coming from and guess the strength. Just not as convenient. Otherwise, Maggie, is doing well.

St. Helena to Brazil, Day 5

 St. Helena to Brazil, Day 5

November 27, 2016

Today, Sunday, is the beginning of our fifth day. Only a few hours has the wind been over 15 knots, usually about 10. So we have only been flying the spinnaker. These light conditions have their own frustrations. Below 6 knots of wind, we can't keep the wind in the sail and the boat moving. The sail collapses and starts to get tangled in other boat parts. One night we ripped a small hole  in it on something sharp. We got the sail below and have put a temporary patch on it.The spinnaker is an unforgiving sail, needing to be all up or all down. You can only do that work with 2 people out on the deck. Three of the times we have done this have been in the middle of the night. No fun! We have already done quite a few hours of motoring. You hate to do that too early in a trip in case you run out of fuel.

Monday the wind is forecast to increase, which we are looking forward to. ( As long as it isn't too much.) Our average daily miles covered is 115 nm. If we keep up this pace, it will be a 15 day passage. Hopefully, we can speed up and make it in 2 weeks. (Dec. 8) In the meantime we are still mostly doing some long term boat chores and reading lots of books. I wonder if internet on sailboats will ever become affordable. I'm sending this blog on our satellite phone to our daughter who will post it for us.

On the road again for Brazil

On the road again for Brazil

November 24, 2016

 This is the first passage that we delayed leaving because there was not enough wind to sail on Tues.  We had already cleared out Mon, but fortunately the officials are pretty relaxed in St Helena. They didn't even charge us for the extra days on the mooring ball. We enjoyed staying that extra day because we had a chance to visit with No Regrets. They arrived Tues instead of Mon, also because of these light wind.

We got together for happy hour and heard about the trip to Namibia. They said it was worth the visit. They have some repairs to do and there is nowhere to buy boat parts. Fortunately, they could get what they needed from spare parts on Tahawas. Those two boats are heading to the offshore island of Fernando before going to the marina in Jacare. This is because Bluewind will be there in early Dec. They are currently also crossing the south Atlantic. But the boat has been in the Med since being shipped there in May. They are leaving for this last leg home to Brazil from the Cape Verde islands off Senegal. The crews on Tahawas and No Regrets are flying home but the owners are not so they have more time than us for the detour. We would like to fly home for Christmas about the second week in Dec. We haven't bought tickets as the Internet was too slow for a project like that. It's better not to have a deadline when sailing anyway.

The forecasts are all for light winds this week, so it may be a long trip. It is 1800 nm to Cabadela, the nearest town, on the "bulge" of SAmerica. We have the spinnaker up and left it up overnight. We covered 115 nm the first day. It is at least a peaceful trip, and it is now tee shirt weather. We are almost at the new moon,but you can't have everything. When it is clear, the stars are amazing!

St. Helena is having their driest year in history. We are not likely then to have many squalls. But it is a serious problem for the island's water supply. For their water they use a dam and reservoir on the river through town. This is the first year there has been no extra water flowing over the dam. A desalination plant had been built at one point but not used because of the expense of moving the water made. More places in the world may have to use them despite the cost. Our's on the boat has been working great. (Touch wood)

St. Helena

View of Jamestown and harbour

Distillery - I think it's a good  business here!

Longwood - Napoleon's "home" on St Halena

Ill fated runway - too windy to land large planes!

View of the fertile centre of the island

Flax - formerly a major industry in St Helena

Jacob"s Ladder - 699 stairs straight down the mountain

Maggie and Tahawus in James Bay

St. Helena

Nov. 20, 2016

The "saints" on St Helena have lived up to their reputation as friendly and helpful, not just to outsiders but between themselves. The officials said sorry when they were late and asked what they could help with. The ferry driver will make extra trips, always with a smile. In town, cars honk and wave to all they pass, and wait for others when the roads are too narrow for 2 cars. Customers in the grocery store shared the few peaches left. Little examples, but they add up.

Passing sailboats stay on mooring balls and there is a ferry service to bring you in to the dock. There is a significant swell at the dock so it would be difficult to use your own dinghy. They have lines for you to grab and you jump onto the slippery dock at the top of a wave. The steep rock face by our boats is home to many unique birds. In town the rock is covered in wire mesh to stop rocks from falling. The town, Jamestown, the capital and only settlement, is just main street running up the valley. Our guide book says the architecture is Georgian. There are many gardens, a public pool, and the trees are in bloom for spring. It is quite pretty.

There is a free museum where we spent a few informative hours. Before long haul flights, and the opening of the Suez Canal, this was a very busy port. In particular, the Dutch East India Company stopped here regularly for 2 centuries. It has been visited by Halley, Bligh, Nelson, Wellington, Cook, Darwin, and Napoleon.  5000 Boer prisoners of war were sent here in the Boer war in SA.

In the 5 centuries since discovery it has gone through many different industries. Flax from NZ was a big product until the use of cotton and nylon replaced linen. Today, the island is not self sufficient, but partly supported by Great Britain. But the unemployment rate is 0%. Young adults get university and transit paid for in England. The cost of living is very high with everything shipped in. Being isolated, technology has been slow to arrive. Cell phones last year, some wifi but slow. Locals can use the internet free from 12 to 6, but that is not long enough to download anything much. Debit cards are coming to the bank in Jan. No businesses take charge cards so you have to keep getting cash during bank hours.

Their first airport was to open May 2016. It has taken 4 years and is complete. But the first flight to land got hit by some wind sheer, shaking up the plane. And they feel this will often be the case. The runway is built north to south, but the prevailing winds are southeast and often strong and gusty on the top of the island. For the time being the airport is sitting unused. Some designer should be in trouble.

On Friday we organized an island tour for us and Tahawas crew. Robert was our guide and driver, and a good history teacher. They have a unique English accent here so we didn't understand it all. We visited Longwood, where Napolean spent the rest of his life. The property belongs to the French government and is used as a museum with a guide. Lots of interesting info there. It was quite a comfortable place to live with nice gardens. He said at one point that the only good thing on St Helena was the coffee. They still grow and brew their own which we enjoyed.

We drove past the airport, and the old volcano crater, and many important buildings. There are remains of old forts, and the old relay stations. The Germans sunk a boat in the harbour in 1942. A part of it still projects above the water. From the heights you can see the boat in the clear water. There is a steep staircase from the harbour up to the fort. It is called "Jacob's Ladder" and has 699 steps. I see there is a marathon next weekend that involves climbing it.

 On the grounds of the Governor General's home there are several giant tortoises. The oldest was alive when Napoleon came! There is one small distillery where we enjoyed the gin and rums made from local materials and wine from SA grapes. It is the only affordable alcohol in the stores .You can buy it in a bottle with "stairs" going up the side, as a souvenir.

Another sailboat from NZ arrived last night from Namibia and Louise left to sail straight to Grenada. On Verra didn't stop here, but continued on to Grenada.  You need medical evacuation insurance to stop. (Or they will sell it to you) , No Regrets will probably arrive tomorrow night. There is a motor yacht with a helicopter and pad belonging to some Arab prince. That's it except for a handful of local boats.

Maggie will probably set sail Mon or Tues. I'd like to get our laundry done and the laundromat doesn't open until Mon. The royal mail ship, "St Helena, was leaving as we arrived Thurs afternoon. The boat brings passengers and everything else islanders need, once a month. But on Sat the workers still hadn't finished unloading the containers so food supplies were depleted in the stores. We'll try again Mon. Today, Sunday, Rob and I are doing chores on Maggie to get ready for the next passage. We made water, repaired SSB wires, replaced some lines, tackled some more leaks, and scrubbed off salt, dirt and rust. Brazil, here we come!

Arrival in St Helena

3 pm Nov. 17 2016

Halfway across the south Atlantic! It feels great to be here. We were worried about arriving after dark and having to heave to until morning but the weather gods were with us. We kept up a good enough speed last night and today to arrive in daylight. Tahawus arrived yesterday as well as Louise who passed us at one point a few days ago. Only 2 other sailboats are here
besides them. There are mooring buoys that are known to be a challenge to pick up with no lines attached. But they are large and flat topped so Rob managed to step down on it and get some lines through the ring on top.

The time zone here is UTC, the same as in England. That makes us feel closer to home.

The end of the sailing trip was as uneventful as the rest, which is the way we like it. We had to gybe regularly and the winds were up and down with varying directions but ok. It was great to have a full moon even though the skies were always overcast. You could still see a bit at night. Today was the first clear day which was a treat for seeing the island as we approached.

Customs are coming out to the boat 8:30 tomorrow so we can just relax onboard until then. It is now 18 degrees C so no more jackets for awhile. The scenery is dramatic coming in. There are very steep cliffs of rock with many birds  and caves along the face. The only town and capital, Jamestown, sits up on the hillside with some parts at sea level. Tomorrow we will get into town to finish the check in and get to the bank. They have their own currency here but also take British pounds. There are no ATM's, and credit cards are not taken anywhere. Cash is king but you pay for it and need to stand in line during bank hours. Wifi is supposed to be very slow and not widely available. We will stick to using the iridium email address on the sat phone.

Tomorrow we look forward to meeting some of the"saints", as the locals are called. The population is about 4000, and they are known to be friendly to outsiders. The history here goes back hundreds of years when ships regularly pulled in here on their way from Europe to the east, before the opening of the Suez Canal. We would like to visit Napolean's home in exile, as well as get in a tour of the island. Tomorrow, besides check in and  the bank we want to get to the tourist office, as well as doing the boring things like laundry and washing up. An early, and long sleep will also be a treat.