Arrival in Martinique

Maggie at the dock

Prince de Bretagne

Arrival in Martinique

The sail from St Lucia to Martinique ended up happening on Thurs, American Thanksgiving. Hope all our friends in the US are having a good weekend. The sailing itself was fine but the throttle on the engine is still not behaving properly. The revs get stuck at 1400 which is too slow if you are trying to get anywhere. Because of that we anchored at Ste Anne which is simpler than the channel into Le Marin. We took the dinghy into customs Friday and later in the day into the marina.

Friday there was almost no wind so we were happy to be off the beach instead of in a slip. We hadn’t done a “med moor” before so were wondering how Maggie and crew would handle the docking here. The boat is backed into the dock with fenders touching the boats to the side and the bow tied to a buoy. Dock handlers move the buoy and its line out of your way. I’m happy to be safe and secure now. A bit more tying down today, laundry, and packing and it is off to the airport at noon. It’s hard to believe that we will be back into winter tonight.

On Sat Barb and Bob rented a car and toured what they could of Martinique. In the evening they took us out to a lovely French dinner at Ti Toques. Meanwhile Rob and I were having a chore day. Along with things, we did manage to but a new cable to connect the throttle to the engine and a relay for the shutoff. At least it was an entertaining day on the dock. The charter boats were coming in and new guests arriving. There were briefing sessions and drinking sessions, a lot of food delivered, and a live band in the evening. There was also a magnificent trimiran at the end of the dock that participated in a race off the island. It is called Prince-de-Bretagne. The media were interviewing, photographers busy, and best of all, St. James Brewery was giving out free rum and food.

The Atlantic Odyssey boats are due to arrive here Dec 10 from Europe. It is too bad that we will just miss that. Some of those boats will be going on with us on the BPO. We tried to get a slip on the same dock but the dock master didn’t seem to know what we were talking about. We’ll see. We are on dock 4, slip97 and will return Jan.6. See you then.

Arrival in St. Lucia

Approaching the Pitons

Bob at Fort Rodney overlooking Rodney Bay

The sail from St Vincent to St Lucia on Sunday, the 23^rd, was a successful although boisterous one. Waves were about 8 feet and wind 25 knots. Rob and I had salty bedding from some leak with the bow pounding into the waves that we will have to track down. The engine worked, but not as well as expected. Yesterday we had a good mechanic look it all over and go for a test run. He did a few more repairs and suggested others so we feel much more confident in it now.

This being our last week to do boat work this trip Rob and I have been tackling the “to do” list in earnest. Once we get to Martinique we have to deal in French, not our forte.

Bob and Barb have hiked up to the fort on Pigeon Island and gone snorkeling and swimming. Mon at sunset we were lucky enough to see the “green flash”. Tonight we are going for pizza with our friends on LAIMA and some of their and our sailing friends, many being Canadians. Tomorrow is going to be the first break in the windy weather in awhile so I expect there will be a big exodus in the morning. We will also take that chance to get to Martinique.

The organizers of the Blue Planet Odyssey are seriously considering a change of route past South Africa now. The political situations on the other route through the Red Sea to the Med are deteriorating. A final decision will be made at Tahiti in the spring. We leave Galapagos for French Polynesia Mar 10.

The mall here has a huge Christmas tree up. It seems strange in the warm weather. But I hear there has already been more than a touch of winter back home. Our flight is late Sun, the 30^th via Montreal. I’m sure by the time we get home we’ll feel right in the middle of the run up to Christmas and a different “to do” list.

A Working Engine!

Fording the Cumberland River

Upper Dark View Falls

After a week in St Vincent we finally have a working engine! The new starting motor came from Florida and arrived Thurs in Kingston, the capital here. Since we needed to travel an hour to pick it up from FedEx and customs we decided to make a day of it. Brother borrowed a car and took the 4 of us to town. Besides the work and shopping, we had lunch and later visited one of the larger waterfalls in the north.

The drive each way gave us a chance to see the island if you could concentrate on the sites. The roads are poor, steep and windy and Brother’s driving fast. It sounded like the car was falling apart. It reminded me of playing a video game. There were not many tourists in town so the market had a different atmosphere. To get to the waterfall we took the west coast road almost to its north end and hiked in. You wade through the stream at the bottom of the first one and then climb to another higher one. The gardens around it were also spectacular. On the road we passed a truck with the marijuana workers piled in the back, a smoking jeep. There are quite a few farms on the northern slopes. They hang a rope from their huts and pull themselves and then the rope up.

Friday the repairs were done. The engine started which by then was a beautiful sound. Then it would not stop. Fortunately we can stop it manually until we replace another part. We took the dinghy to a small beach nearby and did some snorkelling later. Beautifully warm water and lots to see. Now we are in the squally, windy weather. We are waiting out Sat but will leave Sun and put up with the seas. The customs officer, Camille, came up here to check us out today and then we have 24 hours to leave. We paid overtime today but at least she didn’t charge us to re check in.

Camille told us about one time she boarded a boat to do the check in and the captain refused and sailed off with her on board. She needed to call the coast guard to get home. Needless to say there was a fine involved.

We plan on a final dinner on shore tonight. We can take the dinghy but townspeople and staff have to wade across the rocky fast moving stream each way. There is still a lot of damage around from the bad rain storm and landslides last Christmas including bridges, roads and homes. It is a poor island but the people we have met have all been friendly. Brother invited us to dinner on Sun with his family if we were still going to be here.

An Unexpected Detour!

Brother towing us in to Cumberland Bay

Bob, Charlie, Rob  and Brother

MAGGIE in Cumberland Bay

An Unexpected Detour/ or the Way Too Long Passage

This past passage has been another lesson in being flexible and giving yourself enough time when sailing. We left Bequia at dawn Sun hoping to bypass St Vincent and get to St Lucia. The weather was forecast to get windier and wetter as the week went on with the worst days Thurs to Sat. The sail was great across the channel to St Vincent but once in the lee of the island there was almost no wind. When we started the motor it was making some alarming new noises and eventually started to smell like burnt rubber. After some exploring and a few hours changing an almost inaccessible impeller we tried again but the engine wouldn’t even turn over. In the meantime we were trying to sail in less than 5 knots of wind. Every so often there was a squall to help us move. At this point the plan was to sail overnight to St Lucia where you can sail into the anchorage and there are engine repair businesses.

By about 4 pm we realized that we couldn’t make any progress against the current with almost no wind. At times we were drifting backwards. Now the luckier part of the story. We were 3 miles from Cumberland Bay, a 15 mile trip from our start. Rob had a phone number for “Brother”, a boat boy we met on a previous trip. Instead of being in Kingstown where he now lives he was near the bay. He came out and towed us in to the harbour and helped to get the anchor set and the stern tied to shore. (It is too deep here to anchor bow to wind and shore.) He also brought his friend and mechanic, “Yellow”, to look at the engine. It took most of Monday to get it apart enough to find the problem which was a burnt out starter motor. Most of the wires to it were also burnt.

As we expected, there are no replacements on this island. Eventually we ordered one from Florida, that will come in to Grenada and then on to here. Surprisingly they expect it at customs in Kingstown later today, Wed. It is about an hour drive away so will likely (hopefully) be picking it up tomorrow and then the installation starts.

In the meantime, we are enjoying the anchorage here. We had already checked out of the country but customs is giving us an extension. They only asked for fishing gloves and a chocolate bar. There is a restaurant, The Black Baron, very close so you can swim or row in. You need to let the owner know ahead of time if you want something. He will turn on the internet for you also. It will be worth a beer to send this.

We walked in to Spring Village yesterday and picked up a few needed groceries, limited selection but a great bakery.  We enjoyed the many farm animals around and the beautiful rain forest scenery. Rob climbed the mast and put on some mast steps and radar reflector as this is a well protected spot from wind and waves. It has been raining some about every half hour so the laundry is still on the lifelines, well rinsed. We were all drenched after yesterday’s walk so those things are draped on lines all over. Barb says we look like a Chinese laundry! Inside is a mess also as the engine is under the settee around the table so everything has been moved out of the way for working.

After listening to the weather forecast today it looks like things will calm down some starting Sat. We are hoping the engine will be working by then! Then you will hear from us next from Rodney Bay.

Sailing Through the Grenadines

Oysters at Tyrrell Bay, Carriacou

On Union Island, St. Vincent and Grenadines, overlooking islands of Canouan and Tobago Cays.

Maggie at anchor in Chatham Bay, Union Island

Sunset over Union Island from Tobago Cays

We have finished four good days sailing from Grenada to Bequia, the northern most island in the Grenadines chain. The distances haven’t been great but it has been a chance to show Barb and Bob the wonderful scenery here and to work out any problems with the boat. Trying to sail northeast has certainly been easier this month than in Jan. Only a few hours have been spent beating into the waves with the motor. Tues we sailed to Carriacou and checked out of Grenada. Wed was spent in Chatham Bay on Un ion Island, Thurs in Tobago Cays, and Fri to Bequia.

Some of the highlights of that trip:

Getting fresh snapper and oysters from the local fishermen in Carriacou.

Anchoring next to Tim and Patti on Tevai and getting caught up on their travels. They were the first boat we travelled with going through the Erie Canal.

Some meals with Rick and Beni on Laima before we parted ways for the season.

Seeing Haven again in Tobago and Bequia.

A squally but beautiful day at Tobago Cays.

Bob swimming and snorkelling at each stop, including an anchor check.

The turtles on the road on Union and the huge ones at the Cays.

The crazy jeep ride back from customs to Chatham Bay. We walked an hour to Clifton to check in at customs but they were just closing. Then it was on to the customs at the airport. By then it was getting dark and we had left Bob and Barb on the beach watching the dinghy, hence the “cab”.

A good wind angle.

Finding tomatoes at the market.

Having the laundry picked up and returned to the boat in Bequia.

You can tell it doesn’t take much to make my day here.

We continue the boat project list but it seems like we are breaking things at the same rate as the repairs. A drawer fell out in the pounding and Rob is gluing it back together. A leak near the bow has returned after we thought it had been tracked down. A zipper end in the dodger has broken. These are all small things. The alarming one has been the screen on the chart plotter going dark. Fortunately we have another one at the nav station below but that’s not as convenient. Once we have internet Rob will contact the company.

The weather is forecast to start to deteriorate Sun night and be particularly ugly Thurs to Sat next week. So we are planning the long sail past St Vincent to St Lucia tomorrow starting at dawn. This morning we will get to the Sat market and check out at customs and then enjoy the day.

First Week on the Water

                                                          First week on the water

As I mentioned in the last blog we are now in Prickly Bay and have been able to start on the chores that require being in the water, like the refrigeration and generator. The generator wouldn’t start which was also a problem at the beginning of last season. A mechanic was out to the boat 2 days and replaced one part and we are back in business. Hopefully now that the boat will not be stored it will keep working. We are trying to be energy efficient without it, but the backup is useful.

It’s a bit strange to be a sailboat and not be sailing yet. After this squally weekend we will likely begin our passage north. But there have been a lot of projects to do. We removed the microwave and Rob is building some storage into that spot as well as many other little chores. Canvas jobs, cleaning, organizing, provisioning and cooking fill much of the time.  

Bob and Barb Shanks arrived Mon pm. We have taken some time this week to be tourists in Grenada while they are here. We did an all day island tour, got to St George’s and the fort there. On the weekend we hope to get to the beach, and the pool at the University Club. An Australian boat, “Haven”, arrived from Trinidad the day before with 4 aboard. They joined us on the island tour. In talking about their travels from Australia we found out that they had become friends and fellow travellers with Bob’s sister and husband on Cat’s Paw 4. Small world!

On the drive we toured a nutmeg factory, a chocolate factory and a rum distillery. They make white rum using the original equipment producing a product with alcohol levels of 75%!  We were not impressed by the taste of the samples. We drove from the south coast here, along the west and north coasts to the east side. From Grenville we cut back across island through the rain forest. We stopped at a waterfall up there for a refreshing swim.

As the purpose of the Blue Planet Odyssey (BPO) is to highlight the effects of climate change we have kept our eyes open for articles on that topic in newspapers and magazines. There was a good review this week in the local Grenada paper of a symposium held this summer on “Climate change and tourism”. A presentation was made by a scientist, a politician, and a diplomat. The scientist painted a grim picture, particularly for the small island states of the Caribbean, Pacific, Atlantic, Indian and Mediterranean seas. Temperature rises of 1 to 2 degrees will cause severe weather events, sea level rise with flooding and ocean acidification. The other speakers suggested possible reactions. There is an Alliance of Small Island States (AOSIS) working on technological solutions. Renewable energy sources need to be developed.

On our tour we learned that there are about 130,000 people in Grenada with a minimum wage of about $3 US. It will certainly be a challenge for the people here.

A Successful Launch

We have been in Grenada for one week now and are finally out floating in Prickly Bay. It was great to step off the plane and smell the warm, humid sea air and vegetation. This is our eighth visit here so it feels like coming home to a favourite place.

That hot sun didn’t feel as good after 4 days working “on the hard” in the boatyard! The time was spent doing the usual- cleaning, and putting the boat back together after storage.

The water pump, in-boom furling, windlass, and generator all didn’t work on the first try. Rob has been busy making repairs or replacements. We have emptied the seven boxes that were shipped from home and found a home for most of the food, clothes, supplies and spare parts.

We treated ourselves to a room at Cool Runnings to sleep. Unfortunately we couldn’t get internet until the last day. And on Thurs there was no power all day so no showers, AC, or lights either. It is dark 6 to 6 right now. We missed “Da Big Fish”, a restaurant next to the marina. It has new owners who are renovating and hoping to have it reopened shortly.

We have met a few sailors here that we know from previous seasons. It is always fun to catch up and discuss plans. Quite a few sailboats have arrived from Trinidad in the last few days as the weather has been good. We haven’t been here in the fall before and the wind is not as strong as it has been in Jan..

The launch on Oct 31 went well. It feels so good to be on the water and in the breeze even though it is a bit rolly. The boat kids dressed for Halloween and visited other boats by dinghy. It was amazing to see all the costumes when you know how limited the supplies would be on a boat.

Bob and Barb Shanks arrive tomorrow night from Calgary and will be with us until we all fly back Nov.30 from Martinique. After a few days enjoying Grenada we will sail through St. Vincent and the Grenadines, to St. Lucia, and then to Martinique. Maggie will then stay in the marina at Le Marin until we fly back Jan.6. The Blue Planet Odyssey leaves from there Jan.18. Looking forward to that!

Getting Ready

                                          

                                           MAGGIE on the hard after haul out - April 2014

                                                 

Oct 17,  2014   Oakville, On, Canada

We are getting excited and impatient for our first leg of the Blue Planet Odyssey to begin. Although we have been busy with preparations, it has been frustrating not to be on or near our boat. We have a true long distance relationship with MAGGIE. We live near Toronto, and our boat is “on the hard” in Grenada waiting out the hurricane season.

During the summer work was done to upgrade the canvas, repair and change some of the rigging, redo engine hoses, and prepare the hull  for bottom painting. Last winter we did many other needed repairs and upgrades. Rob installed a hydro generator which worked well, and a new parasailor (asymmetrical spinnaker) is ready to go.

But there has been no lack of things for us to do at this end. We have been ordering parts and supplies, which typically come from the US, to Canada and then shipped them to Grenada, although some have gone directly. We have seven large boxes waiting for us at the marina. It will be a challenge to try to find a home for it all! As you can imagine, there are mounds of paper to work through to get the boat and the house prepared. Our boat and health insurances are organized. Flight tickets are booked. Communications plans are set in place. This weekend is dedicated to a first aid/CPR course. Tuesday is the travel clinic and shots.

We have been talking to as many people as will listen, promoting the BPO message about the health of our oceans, climate change, and what we can learn and/or do during this trip. But the most pleasant chore has been reading about the places we will be visiting.

We are now looking forward to getting to Grenada October 26 and launching October.31. Hopefully there will be no unpleasant surprises from the storage period! We will have the month of November to work on the boat and travel to Martinique, where the Caribbean start of the Blue Planet Odyssey is scheduled for January 18, 2015. It will also give us a chance to work with our crew for the BPO, Bob Shanks. He and his wife, Barbara, will be joining us on November 3 for our trip to Martinique. The Shanks live in Okanagan Falls BC.

We can’t wait to get back on the water!

Maggie at anchor

Maggie at anchor at St Michaels off Chesapeake Bay - summer 2012